Which seaside towns come to mind when you think about visiting the Oregon Coast? Cannon Beach, Newport, Lincoln City, Seaside, and Astoria are ones that pop into my mind first. After our recent trip earlier this month, Pacific City is at the top of our list. Here are a few reasons why you should visit Pacific City next time you are on the Oregon Coast.
History
We enjoy learning about the history of places we visited. Here are some interesting pieces of information we’ve been able to gather.
Before being settled, the Nestugga and Killamook Indian tribes inhabited the area. This is where the names, Nestucca (River) and Tillamook originated. The land provided these tribes with ample hunting opportunities for centuries. However, after the first recorded forest fire in Oregon in 1845, the tribes were left with fishing as their primary source of food. They were relocated to a reservation on the Siletz and Salmon river around 1876.
“The great fire of 1845” is said to have started when a homesteader was burning brush. The fire was whipped by high winds and got out of control. Smoke filled the air for several weeks – at points forcing people to use candlelight at mid-day since the smoke was so thick and sunlight was unable to penetrate. All told, the fire burned 1,500,000 acres and includes the largest area of old growth destroyed from a single fire.
Pacific City was originally called Ocean Park but was renamed in 1909 to avoid confusion with Ocean Park, Washington. It became a settlement in the mid-1800s and was homesteaded by Thomas Malaney in 1893. Today it remains unincorporated with no mayor or city council. It is bordered on three sides by BLM land and by the great Pacific Ocean on the fourth.
Beaches
Pacific City Beach is a surfing mecca. In fact, during our stay, it just happened that the Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic (held annually in September) was going on! With stunning views of Haystack Rock/Chief Kiawanda Rock and Cape Kiwanda, the tallest dune on the coast, you won’t be disappointed.
Sit and watch surfers riding a wave to shore while basking in the sunlight. Or watch people climb Cape Kiwanda and run/tumble/slide back down. Of course, you can splash in the ocean yourself or run with your pups along the shoreline. Get up early enough to see Dory boats launch straight from the beach on their way to fish in the deeper ocean waters. Chinook and Coho salmon, albacore tuna, rock fish, and Dungeness crab are what they’re hoping to bring back. We enjoyed our fair share while visiting!
McPhillips Beach is part of the Cape Kiwanda State Natural area and just north of Pacific City Beach. You might miss the hidden turnoff just off the main road through town so keep your eyes peeled. You’ll find a small parking area where you can park and walk down to the beach. Or you can slowly drive down the one lane “road” and straight onto the beach. If you choose to do this, use caution and stay on the harder packed, wet sand. We drove Vannah down onto the beach with no problem but we did see a car or two get stuck during our day there.
This beach is significantly less busy and just as beautiful. You’ll find dunes, trees looking permanently windblown from the coastal winds, boulders that have tumbled down from the jutting cape itself, and of course, soaring birds, and beautiful waves crashing onto the sand. You will see Haystack Rock/Chief Kiawanda Rock standing proudly in the distance.
The Views
Cape Kiwanda is the southern cape in the Three Capes Route along the Oregon Coast. Standing at about 240 feet, the sand dune is the tallest in Oregon. Climb the 40 feet or so along a trail that takes you to a few spectacular viewpoints. Or head straight to the top of the dune for even more spectacular views. You can rent a sand board to ride back down or simply run or tumble down to the beach.
We chose the viewpoint trail which still provided a good calf burning climb and a less dramatic way to reach the beach afterwards. It would be smart to stay inside the fenced pathway since Cape Kiwanda’s sandstone can crumble beneath you unexpectedly. Unfortunately there have been several deaths and the fences are there to keep you safe while still being able to enjoy the spectacular views.
Most often referred to as Haystack Rock, Pacific City is home to one of three of these iconic sea stacks. Although it may not appear to be the tallest of the three, it is and stands at 327 feet. It sits farther off shore which is why it appears to be smaller than the more popular one located in Cannon Beach. It is also known as Chief Kiawanda Rock (yes, it is spelled slightly differently from Cape Kiwanda) and is said to be named after a Chief of the Nestugga Tribe in the 1800s. Notice the arch or keyhole on the north side of this sea stack, a unique feature.
Activities
There’s a lot you can do while visiting Pacific City. Besides walking along the beaches mentioned earlier or hiking up Cape Kiwanda, you can also eat seafood to your heart’s content, hop on a bike and ride along part of the 370 mile Oregon Coast Bike Route, bird watch or fish at Nestucca Bay, and more. Here are some links to help you plan some of the fun activities.
- Birding and hiking at Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge (https://www.fws.gov/refuge/nestucca-bay)
- Crabbing and fishing in Nestucca Bay (http://oregonfishinginfo.com/Nestucca%
- 20Bay%201.html)
- Hiking, picnicking, beach access at Bob Straus State Park (https://stateparks.oregon.gov/index.cfm?do=park.profile&parkId=133)
- Watch Dory boats launch from the beach (https://theoregoncoast.info/PacificCity/Dorymen.html)
- Biking along the Oregon Coast Bike Route (https://traveloregon.com/things-to-do/outdoor-recreation/bicycling/ride-oregon-coast/)
Where to Stay
There are several places to choose from during your stay. We stayed at Camp Kiwanda RV park (https://www.capekiwandarvresort.com/) which has restrooms, showers, laundry facilities, a cool trail behind the park, a playground for kids, electricity, sewer, and water. They also have cute cabins and pets are welcome! Did we mention it’s conveniently located across the street from the beach? Definitely a plus!
Hart’s Camp (https://www.hartscamp.com/) is right next to Camp Kiwanda and offers RV sites or a chance to stay in one of their Airstream campers. Take advantage of their common area with a great firepit and a selection of yard games!
Looking to stay in a hotel instead? There are a few to choose from including the Inn at Cape Kiwanda (https://www.innatcapekiwanda.com/) which has a coffee shop right on the corner and is also across from the beach. Another good option is the Surf & Sand Inn (https://surfandsandinn.com/) which used to be US Coast Guard lookout station!
No matter where you choose to stay, you’re sure to have a fun and relaxing time in this quaint coastal town.
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